BALENCIAGA BY DEMNA
At 40 Rue de Sèvres, within the storied Laennec Hospital complex now serving as Kering’s Paris headquarters, a singular exhibition quietly commands the attention of the fashion world. Balenciaga by Demna, running from June 26 to July 9, is not a retrospective in the traditional sense—it is an auteur’s statement.
Marking ten years at the helm of Balenciaga, Demna (who famously eschews the use of his last name) has self-curated a selection of 101 pieces from his archives. Each look, each object, each detail is drawn not simply from the runway, but from the conceptual strata that underpins his radical tenure.
Rewriting the House Codes
When Demna was appointed artistic director in 2015, many questioned how his underground, deconstructionist sensibilities would translate to a house synonymous with elegance and architectural grace. He didn’t just translate them—he rewrote the codes. This exhibition is a living index of that transformation.
From the instantly recognizable oversized puffers of Fall 2016 to the provocative DHL tee of Vetements lore that prefaced his arrival, from couture-level black gowns to trompe-l’oeil denim, Balenciaga by Demna underscores his subversive precision.
What unites the 101 selected pieces is not simply their visual power, but their commentary. A wedding dress rendered entirely in upcycled jersey. A hoodie reinterpreted in cashmere and draped like couture. Sneakers elevated to pedestal-worthy sculpture.
An Immersive, Sculptural Experience
Demna’s vision extends beyond the garments. The exhibition itself—staged across a series of subdued, spatially dramatic rooms—is an installation as much as it is an archive. Fifty of the pieces are paired with audio commentaries recorded by Demna himself, offering intimate access to his thoughts and provocations.
Sculptural installations by Mark Jenkins and motorized kinetic elements by artist Andrew J. Greene underscore the idea that in Demna’s world, fashion is neither static nor one-dimensional. It is living material. One Jenkins sculpture reinterprets the designer’s own appearance in the now-iconic 2021 Met Gala look—a literal embodiment of anonymity and critique.
A Catalogue as Artifact
Visitors to the exhibition can collect a limited-edition, magazine-style catalogue, produced exclusively for the occasion. More than a program, it is a fashion artifact—featuring newly commissioned visuals, detailed archival photography, and the stark aesthetic that defines Demna’s era at the house.
Context and Closure
“This is not a greatest hits collection,” Demna told Vogue Business. “It’s a personal selection. A résumé. Closure.”
The exhibition feels deliberately final—though not nostalgic. It reframes a decade not as a linear history, but as a series of ruptures, provocations, and questions. What constitutes luxury? What should be protected, and what must be dismantled?
As Demna prepares to step away from Balenciaga, with his final couture presentation taking place just days after the exhibition closes, Balenciaga by Demna functions as both a farewell and a challenge. It’s an invitation to reimagine what fashion can be—unapologetically political, discomforting, ironic, vulnerable, and deeply human.
Visiting Information
Balenciaga by Demna
June 26 – July 9, 2025
40 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris
Free admission with advance booking
Reservations: exposition.balenciaga.com